Rundown but beautiful, and with a host of exotic stories to tell, the town is on the rise as new hotels open and renovation gathers pace
Wandering round the Cuban town of Sagua La Grande is like turning the cobwebbed pages of a forgotten magical realist novel. It has two grandiose churches: the 1860 Purísima Concepción de Sagua la Grande, with frescoes, stained glass and marble, framed by a streets that end in a square dwarfed by 100-year-old yellow flame trees; and the 1908 Iglesia del Sagrado Corazón de Jesús, seat of the banished Jesuits.
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