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10 stunning hotels and B&Bs for a perfect holiday in Italy – historical homes, charming villas and island escapes where the sea is never far away
Marulivo Hotel, Pisciotta, Salerno, Campania
Cool – in both senses of the word – metre-thick walls give the whole place a delicious ancient smell, a reminder you are staying in a 14th-century monastery. Architect Lea, and Massimo, have revived the ruin after it lay abandoned for 100 years. Open to the elements, its topsy-turvy layout is intriguing. Gorgeous bedrooms have exposed brickwork, balconies and heaps of individual touches: dividing the bedrooms of one suite is the "window" of a confessional unearthed during the restoration. The terraces, and their blue views, cry out for lounging with a glass of the local greco. Potter around car-free Pisciotta, scramble down through the olive groves to the harbour and visit the famous grottos.
• Doubles from €70 a night B&B, +39 0974 973792, marulivohotel.it
Torre Cepollini, Albenga, Savona, Liguria
You'll feel part of the buzz in the heart of history-filled Albenga with its famous medieval towers. Yours is the tallest one; it's 12th century with a slight lean. Through the door and up the black-and-white tiled steps, it feels grand and homely at the same time, with a beautiful living room leading to three lovely bedrooms. The tower room bathroom is stunning: over three levels culminating in a gorgeous tub. This is a small, family-run operation; friendly English owner Michael lives nearby, gives you keys, and pops in to make delicious breakfast. The beach is a 10-minute walk away.
• Doubles from €90 a night B&B, +39 3460 586804, torrecepollini.it
Hotel Lucrezia, Riola Sardo, Oristano, Sardinia
The courtyard garden steals the show in this gorgeous old house on the edge of town within striking distance of 20 beaches. You'll find tables and chairs at the foot of ancient trees, pots of colour, and sofas and armchairs on a shaded terrace. The house, with eight beautiful bedrooms, has been in the family for over 100 years. West coast beaches are on your doorstop, as are the ruins of Phoenician Tharros. You can nip down to Cagliari in under an hour, then check out the World Heritage site of Su Nuraxi on your way home.
• Doubles from €129 a night B&B, +39 0783 412078, hotellucrezia.it
Casa Turchetti, Taormina, Messina, Sicily
Turn back the clock a century or so and you would have heard Puccini or Vivaldi resounding from deep within this 19th-century townhouse. The music academy is no more but Casa Turchetti has not let go of its musical past and little touches are dotted about. Cheerful hosts Pino and Francesca are understandably proud of their restoration and will be as hands-on or not as you want. Big bedrooms are elegant and supremely comfortable and bathrooms are designed for serious grooming. Catch your breath on the rooftop terrace: the Greek amphitheatre to your left, smouldering Etna to your right and the hum of Taormina just below.
• Doubles from €200 a night B&B, +39 0942 625013, casaturchetti.com
Poggio ai Santi, San Vincenzo, Livorno, Tuscany
International sports presenter Dominique knows what people yearn for on holiday. At Poggio ai Santi, he and his wife are channelling all their imagination and flair into providing it. Here are three buildings – the main house 19th century, the other two modern – set among roses and with spellbinding sea views. Uneven paths wind through fabulously relaxing gardens planted with a hundred exotic trees; there's even a painting hut where you can help yourself to art supplies. The restaurant is presided over by Danny, an exciting and passionate Michelin-starred chef. Bedrooms are cool, Asian-chic and luxurious – the Royal Mare suite has a vast free-standing bath on the terrace.
• Doubles from €149 a night B&B, +39 0565 798032, poggioaisanti.com
La Macchiola, Spongano, Puglia
The courtyard walls drip with creepers and geraniums, in front is a citrus grove, and all this is part of a vibrant working farm. La Macchiola is devoted to the production of organic olive oil: Anna's family makes some of Puglia's finest. Go through the massive gates and you will leave the narrow and unremarkable streets of Spongano village to enter a white-gravelled, white-walled courtyard dotted with wrought-iron tables and chairs. Off the courtyard, apartments have been lovingly converted into airy, old-style rooms. There's a vast roof terrace and cakes for breakfast in an impressive stone-vaulted room. Beaches are a short drive.
• Doubles from €80 a night B&B, +39 0836 945023, lamacchiola.it
Villa Giulia, Fano, Urbino, Marche
Pines, cypress oaks and roses surround this Napoleonic villa, wisteria billows over the lemon house, and the gardens merge into the family's olive groves. No formality, no fuss, just an easy, gracious and kind welcome from Anna. It was named after an indomitable great-aunt (the first woman to climb Mont Blanc!). The best and most baronial bedrooms are in the villa and have shutters and old-fashioned metal beds. Two suites in La Dipendenza have kitchenettes, while the apartments proper are divided between the Farmhouse and the Casa Piccola. Breakfasts are taken at pink-clothed tables on a terrace whose views reach to the Adriatic (the beach is a mile away).
• Doubles from €120 a night B&B, +39 0721 823159, relaisvillagiulia.com
Su Dandaru, Bosa, Oristano, Sardinia
A totter down a cobbled alley in Bosa's quaint old town brings you to a prettily painted 1700s house. In contrast to the lovely old arches, wooden beams and stone floors is a fresh, imaginative decor. Four bedrooms spread over three floors are charming and inviting, with small, perfectly formed bathrooms. Above is a sitting room and a big roof terrace with views of the medieval castle – lovely for an evening under the stars. You breakfast in a cafe and can dine in town, perhaps at the owner's charming little place by the river.
• Doubles from €60 a night B&B, +39 34796 80120, sardiniabandb.com
Borgopetra, Mascalucia, Catania, Sicily
In the historic centre of Mascalucia, Borgopetra is an exquisite revival of a 400-year-old manor house surrounded by orchards and gardens. Journalist Cristina left the high life in Milan to join Toto in the restoration of his family borgo. On the southern slopes of Mount Etna, these luxurious apartments wrap themselves around a courtyard brimming with cactuses and jasmine. Inside, stunning antique rubs shoulders with stylish modern: a chic red basin on an ancient terracotta floor, an old country wardrobe, a sleek chaise longue. Among apricot and orange trees is a cool pool; in the old marionette theatre there is a gym, a bar, and shelves crammed with books and board games.
• Doubles from €125 a night B&B, +39 0957 277184, borgopetra.it
Boccadalma, Scarlino, Grosseto, Tuscany
Follow the umbrella pines from the Maremma coast to meet friendly hosts Ellen and Luciano. Soak up the essence of their 200-year-old farmhouse at breakfast in the stables, alongside the old wooden drinking troughs. Homemade cakes, jams, honey from the local beekeeper and good coffee set you up for the day. Views are of the Alma valley, the breezy sea and fields where wild boar roam. Navajo rugs top wrought-iron beds in rooms named after the Tuscan archipelago and your private terrace has areas for sun and shade. The exquisite sands of Cala Violina cove are just a short stroll.
• Doubles from €89 a night B&B, +39 347 7971593, boccadalma.com
Sawday's new Special Places to Stay Italy is on sale now, price £15.99. For more information on the book or any of the places featured visit sawdays.co.uk