Sunny San Antonio has hotels aplenty. Choose from an antebellum mansion, a former bank by the riverside or even an old hospital overlooking the Alamo
The Emily Morgan Hotel
If you're in town to see the Alamo, stay overlooking it at the Emily Morgan, which sits on what was a battlefield for Mexican soldiers in 1836. This gothic revival-style property has also just completed a $4m renovation, so the 177 rooms feel refreshed thanks to quality Egyptian cotton sheets and oversized air-jet tubs. Also note the hotel's gargoyles, each representing a different ailment, a nod to the building's hospital roots. If you happen to be in town on a Thursday night, the hotel's Oro Restaurant and Bar has live music, free chair massages, and tarot readings.
• 705 East Houston Street, +1 210 225 5100, emilymorganhotel.com. Doubles from $159
Hotel Contessa
Lady Contessa, the hotel's figurative Spanish matriarch, watches over guests in the grand marble lobby – where overstuffed couches beckon under towering palm trees – from her painted portrait perch. Her elegant style is echoed throughout the 265 suites, where high ceilings and exposed brick walls create an urban loft-style feel. In your free time, head to the rooftop pool or grab a riverfront table at Cork Bar for a fresh-lime margarita. This is also the place to stay if you're travelling with a furry friend: the property is within walking distance of a dog park, and pets receive a welcome treat upon arrival.
• 306 West Market Street, +1 210 229 9222, thehotelcontessa.com. Doubles from $239 a night
Drury Plaza Hotel Riverwalk
Travellers check in at bank teller booths at this central hotel, formerly the 1929 Alamo Bank Building. While the 380 rooms feel a touch dated, the hotel is off the charts when it comes to value and friendly Texan hospitality. There's a complimentary hot breakfast, for example, as well as snacks, beer and wine served during evening social hours. Check out the rooftop pool and lounge even if you don't want to get wet: this handsome 24-story building has some of the best views in town.
• 105 North St Mary's Street, +1 210 212 5200, druryhotels.com. Rooms from $163, breakfast included
The Fairmount
When this 1906 building was marked for demolition, the city's conservation society stepped in and, at a cost of $1m, moved the structure from its original location close to Commerce Street to its current address in the arty Southtown neighbourhood. It was worth the splurge: with only 37 rooms, this boutique hotel's intimate atmosphere is a contrast to San Antonio's behemoth chains. Each room was individually designed, so travellers can opt for lavish (elegant bed canopies and bathroom chandeliers) or relaxed rooms (cheerful colours and smart furnishings). Snag Veranda Suite 212 if you can: its extensive balcony overlooks HemisFair Park.
• 401 South Alamo Street, +1 210 224 8800, thefairmounthotel-sanantonio.com. Rooms from $199
Hilton Palacio del Rio
This San Antonio institution, ideally located on the River Walk, is fresh from a $35m renovation, so South Texas-inspired interiors – rooms have soothing desert hues with turquoise accents – now pop with hand-carved headboards, works by local artists, mosaic-tiled bathrooms and dark-wood furnishings. Of the 485 rooms, those with a river view are the most popular, though city view rooms also have great lookouts and are often less expensive. There's no lack of entertainment here: you can brush up on American football at Tex's River Walk Sports Bar or join nightly singalongs at Durty Nelly's Irish Pub.
• 200 South Alamo Street, +1 210 222 1400, palaciodelrio.com. Rooms from $135
Hotel Havana
Austin-based hotelier Liz Lambert, who has a Midas touch for all things hip, opened this historic 27-room property after a renovation by local architects Lake Flato. The hotel has minimalist rooms with wistful Cuban touches such as heavy chandeliers and plantation shutters. Stylish Smeg fridges are stuffed with Texan and Mexican snacks, while bathrooms have Red Flower toiletries. At the glass-enclosed Ocho restaurant, settle into a peacock-blue couch for French-pressed coffee and delicious breakfast dishes such as plantain griddle cakes or berries, granola and yoghurt drizzled with jalapeño and agave syrup.
• 1015 Navarro Street, +1 210 222 2008, havanasanantonio.com. Rooms from $106
Menger Hotel
Even tourists who aren't staying at this family-owned property – the oldest hotel still in operation west of the Mississippi – want to breeze through the grand and historic establishment. Guests such as Babe Ruth, Sam Houston, and General Lee graced these halls; President Teddy Roosevelt recruited the Rough Riders, the first US Volunteer Cavalry, in the antiques-filled Menger Bar in 1898. Many of the 316 stately rooms have a story, which is probably why some regulars say they've spotted ghosts in period dress floating through the halls.
• 204 Alamo Plaza, +1 210 223 4361, mengerhotel.com. Rooms from $160
Noble Inns
Three period houses in San Antonio's King William historic district make up this distinctive property. The Oge House, an 1857 antebellum mansion, has 10 rooms and an acre and a half of gardens dotted with gazebos. Opt for the Blenheim Suite for its fireplace and California King (183cm by 213cm) bed. Enjoy lemonade and cookies on the front porch of the nearby Victorian-style Jackson house; inside six guestrooms are decorated with antiques. Grab a book and hang out in the pool and garden by the intimate Carriage House.
• 107 Madison Street, +1 210 223 2353, nobleinns.com. Rooms from $109
1908 Ayres Inn
Unlike most accommodation in downtown San Antonio, the parking is free at this 1908 Gilded Age mansion, in the pedestrian-friendly Monte Vista neighbourhood. There's also complimentary Wi-Fi and refreshments, not to mention five plush rooms with updated amenities such as whirlpool baths and memory foam beds. Don't miss the top-notch breakfast: buttermilk waffles topped with strawberries, cinnamon pecan pancakes, or a white cheddar, ham and rocket omelette.
• 124 West Woodlawn Avenue, +1 210 736 4232, 1908ayresinn.com. Rooms from $125
King William Manor
While this charming B&B has just 12 rooms – all individually decorated – it's able to accommodate a range of travellers. Couples planning a romantic overnight might opt for the Plantation Room, with love seat, fireplace and relaxing soaking tub. Families, on the other hand, can spread out in the two-room vacation rental behind the Greek-revival house. Guests can mingle at the shared pool, or over a healthy breakfast of omelettes and grilled vegetables. You're walking distance from the River Walk and all its restaurants.
• 1037 South Alamo Street, +1 210 222 0144, kingwilliammanor.com. Rooms from $129
Prices do not include 15.5% hotel and city taxes. Rates include breakfast only where noted
Stirling Kelso is a travel writer. She currently contributes to the New York Times, Travel + Leisure, Southern Living, Food & Wine, and Endless Vacation.
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