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From cosy B&Bs and small hotels brimming with history, to big luxe establishments and trendy, modern boltholes, the city has somewhere to suit every weary traveller
Morris House Hotel
Four-poster beds, Victorian writing desks and hardwood floors create an atmosphere of luxury at one of Philadelphia's most acclaimed independent boutique hotels. Constructed right after the American Revolution in 1787, the 15-room brick house underwent renovations in 2005 to perfect the sparse, slightly medieval-looking decor, which offers enough variety to suit most travellers' tastes (Room 302 feels like a cosy reading room, while the duplex Presidential Suite is anchored by a spiral staircase and balcony reached through french doors.) The effect is completed by a pristine formal back garden, where weddings are frequently held in the warmer months.
• 225 South 8th Street, +1 215 922 2446, morrishousehotel.com. Rooms from $159
Alexander Inn
What at first appears to be a humble family-owned B&B in Philly's Washington Square West neighbourhood soon reveals itself as a fully modernised, warmly decorated haven of old-world charm. The Alexander Inn has 48 oak-accented rooms, several of which have bay windows overlooking quaint Spruce Street. Original stained-glass fixtures and millwork are part of the building's historic appeal, though it's the friendly staff who earn the inn such high marks on sites such as TripAdvisor.
• 301 South 12th Street, +1 215 923 3535, alexanderinn.com. Doubles from $129
Philadelphia Bella Vista B&B
Philadelphia Magic Gardens, a nearby art gallery and studio well-known for its bewildering mosaic-lined passages and gardens, frequently refers visiting artists and students to this affordable Center City lodging. In these three townhouses dating from the 1860s, husband-and-wife team Dan and Barbara have furnished the 20 individually themed rooms and suites with antiques from around the country. The six suites have private kitchenettes and dining areas, and a continental self-service breakfast spread is laid out each morning.
• 752 South 10th Street, +1 215 238 1270, philadelphiabellavistabnb.com. Doubles from $105
Penn's View Hotel
Work your way through a five-glass "flight" (from $15.75) at Il Bar, an award-winning wine bar (with over 150 selections by the glass available on any given day) contained within this popular waterfront hotel. Facing out to the Delaware river, the shipping warehouse-turned-coffeeshop-turned-boutique hotel has seen many incarnations over the years, though its current set-up (49 rooms, two suites, one restaurant) may be the homiest yet. The odd juxtaposition of exposed brick and patterned wallpaper can at first seem jarring, but the hotel's aesthetics are soon forgiven for its prime riverfront views and easy access to the historic quarter.
• 14 N Front Street, +1 215 922 7600, pennsviewhotel.com. Rooms from $135
Thomas Bond House
Each room at this 18th-century Georgian classical revival townhouse is named after various friends and relatives of Thomas Bond, a celebrated Maryland-born physician who co-founded the country's first public hospital with Benjamin Franklin in 1751. For example, the second-floor William Penn room has patriotic red-white-and-blue matching bedspreads and curtains, while the third-floor Phineas Bond room is an all-pink affair with pine four-poster bed and exposed wood beams. Wine-and-cheese hour is held each night in the ground-floor parlour, where a small library, Rumford fireplace and chess set are a ideal for whiling away a rainy morning.
• 129 South 2nd Street, +1 215 923 8523, thomasbondhousebandb.com. Rooms from $135
Rittenhouse 1715
Exit this charming 23-room boutique hotel and you find yourself right on the edge of Rittenhouse Square, one of Philadelphia's five original public parks dating back to the city's founding by William Penn in the late 1600s. The square's tree-lined walkways and smattering of high-end restaurants make a nice complement to the hotel itself, where marble bathrooms have Molton Brown toiletries, and a range of amenities (Wi-Fi, newspaper delivery, continental breakfast) are included in the rate.
• 1715 Rittenhouse Square Street, +1 215 546 6500, rittenhouse1715.com. Rooms from $159.95
Gables B&B
Though it functioned as a church-owned nursing home until the late 1980s, this beautifully preserved Victorian building – complete with large wraparound porch and inlaid oak floors in all 10 rooms – is perfect for visitors seeking a quieter side of Philly. Be sure to ask for the Christmas Room, a former Santa Claus-themed shrine which, thankfully, was recently made over with a basic black-and-white colour scheme and a pair of twin beds, and remains the largest room in the house.
• 4520 Chester Avenue, +1 215 662 1918, gablesbb.com. Doubles from $125
Independent Hotel
City Hall, the Liberty Bell and Philly's own LGBT-friendly district, the Gayborhood, all sit within walking distance of this upscale boutique hotel, but you could just as happily spend your trip lounging in the gorgeous atrium-style lobby, gawking at the giant custom-made painting that spans four floors. The elegant rooms are outfitted with matching beige furniture, Keurig coffee-makers, microwaves and mini fridges – convenient amenities for the kind of savvy, on-the-go guests who stay here. Though if you feel like sleeping in, the hotel also offers complimentary hand-delivered breakfast; simply mark your preference (Greek yoghurt, pastries, cereal, fresh fruit) on a card outside your room before bed, and voilà!
• 1234 Locust Street, +1 215 772 1440, theindependenthotel.com. Doubles from $139
The Pink House
Known around the neighbourhood for its brightly painted exterior, the Pink House offers two units: a guest suite, with private bathroom, kitchen and living/dining area, that can sleep up to four; and the studio, a cosy, functional two-person space whose entrance is playfully hidden behind a tall bookcase (a nifty piece of carpentry work by a friend of the owners). Theneighbourhood, University City, a 15-minute drive from Center City, has a small-town feel, with plenty of cafes, restaurants and bars, and is close to both Pennsylvania and Drexel universities. Since opening to the public in 2009, the unique guesthouse, which offers free Wi-Fi and a basic breakfast, attracts a mix of university graduates, European tourists, conference attendees and families of students.
• 506 South 45 Street, +1 215 220 0204, pinkhouseon45th.com. Guest suite from $140 a night; studio from $110
The Latham Hotel
Recent renovations have helped bring this beloved 14-storey art deco building fully into the 21st century, with artsy black-and-white photos in all the rooms, a new fitness centre, and a glittering lobby befitting a trendy boutique hotel. Rooms on upper floors offer spectacular views of Downtown, and the bathrooms are bright and spacious, with toiletries by Gilchrist & Soames. As an added bonus, guests can make use of a complimentary house car, useful for shuttling between the abundance of sights in the surrounding historic district.
• 135 S 17th Street, +1 215-563-7474, lathamhotelphiladelphia.com. Doubles from $209
Alex Schechter has written for New York Magazine, Time Out New York, Monocle, Jaunted, HotelChatter, and Logo TV. He lives in Gowanus, Brooklyn
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