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A member of the Design Hotels group, Memmo Alfama is the only boutique hotel in the atmospheric old neighbourhood of Alfama often touted as the city's most authentic quarter. You might want to avoid staying there in June when the area's narrow lanes and small squares are the focal point for a series of festivals, the most raucous of which is the Feast of St Anthony or sardine festival (12 June). It's a great atmosphere, the air thick with the smell of grilled sardines on street barbecues and booming sound systems for the duration of the celebrations, but not conducive to sleep. The rest of the year, sit back with a glass of vinho verde on the hotel's terrace as you take in the glorious view of the white Santa Engrácia and Santa Vicente churches, the terracotta rooftops and the estuary of the Tejo river beyond, or take a dip in the blood red rooftop pool. Rooms are smart, with white walls and linens and wooden floors. Memma's owners commissioned art by the Portuguese street artist Vhils enter the quiet alley that leads to the hotel and you will be greeted by the face of a man carved on the wall. Note: don't try to take the car there.
Doubles from 135, +351 210 495 660, memmoalfama.com
