The force of the elements is all-pervasive in Iceland, so cosiness, comfort and hospitality are high among our readers’ priorities when it comes to affordable places to stay beyond Reykjavík
Hólmur is a farm and guesthouse just off Route 1 in the south-east. It’s been my regular base while doing field work for my PhD on a local glacier. Alongside the guesthouse there is a small restaurant that serves breakfasts (excellent pancakes) and evening meals. There is also a small petting zoo that on my last visit included a baby reindeer rescued during the winter. Hólmur makes an excellent base from which to explore some of the less touristy glaciers and you’ll have no trouble avoiding the hordes that frequent Skaftafell and Sólheimajökull. Particular highlights include the 17km well-maintained gravel road beside Skalafellsjökull and a short walk to spectacular terminus of the Fláajökull glacier. If it’s cloudy at sea level then the Skalafellsjökull road almost always offers a cloud inversion from the top and some welcome (and rare) Icelandic sun.
Doubles from £43 B&B, holmurinn.is
Alex Clayton
