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The Haughmond hotel, Upton Magna, near Shrewsbury: review

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It has comfortable rooms, but it’s the superb food that sets this former coaching inn apart – and got it straight into the Michelin guide

‘So where did you find the chef?” my friend asks Mel, co-owner of the Haughmond hotel, while scraping up the last smear of chocolate fondant. “I married him,” she replies, looking pleased with herself – and no wonder: this is the best meal I’ve eaten all year.

We are in Basils, the Haughmond’s new fine-dining restaurant, which relocated from Wrockwardine, a couple of villages away, to the hotel in Upton Magna, just outside Shrewsbury, in September. In three months, it has won two AA rosettes and been included in the Michelin guide.

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