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The slow return to Paris: how tourism is taking time to recover

Three months after the November terror attacks and the French capital’s bars, hotels and restaurants are beginning to see an upturn. But, convincing visitors to return hasn’t been easy

As bistros go, L’Ami Pierre, a low-key establishment on rue de la Main d’Or in the 11th arrondissement, is as Parisian as they come. Black-and-white photographs, vulgar cartoons and framed Charlie Hebdo covers hang on the walls. Steak knives and wine glasses sit neatly on small tables laid with white tablecloths. With the first round of diners still to arrive, half a dozen regulars stand against the silver-topped bar, drinking wine and debating the gentrification of their neighbourhood.

The restaurant could probably seat about 30 customers. On the night of 13 November 2015, when Paris fell victim to a series of deadly attacks across the city– including at busy restaurant La Belle Equipe, just five minutes’ walk away – it managed to squeeze in 80 as terrified people took shelter inside. Its owner, Robin Greiner, pulled down the metal shutters on the front, offered everyone a couple of rounds of wine on the house and refused to let anyone leave until 4am.

Related: Favourite Paris bistros: readers’ travel tips

When the attacks happened, we lost 40-50% of our existing bookings overnight. Only since mid-January has it got better.

Maybe by March or April, things will be back to normal. But the real test will come in May and June

Related: Top 10 caves à manger in Paris

Related: Top 10 breakfast spots in Paris

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