New Zealand's capital city has hotels, bars, coffee shops and galleries to enjoy without any sign of orcs, elves or the Shire
Tourists heading to New Zealand this winter who are not fans of JRR Tolkien may feel a little like they've entered a parallel universe. For passengers travelling with Air New Zealand the confusion will begin just moments after take off when they are welcomed on board a flight, not to Wellington but to the "Middle of Middle Earth", as the city now styles itself.
The theme will continue with the on-board safety video "imparting a story of safety" with a message from Gandalf - aka the captain.
Arriving at Wellington airport, the first thing bleary-eyed and jet-lagged, tourists will set their eyes upon is a giant Gollum looming over the cafe area. All this before they've even reached the city proper. Once there they may find themselves using commemorative "Hobbit" currency and putting Hobbit stamps on their postcards home.
Visitors to Wellington whose trip coincides with the red-carpet world premiere of The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey on 28 November may well spot a star or two. At the very least they will be able to pick up a leather pouch or a piece of Hobbit-inspired jewellery at the Hobbit Artisan Market (24-28 November) where artists including glassblowers, leather workers, jewellers and sculptors will be displaying and selling their work.
The market is a one-off, but the city's shops, cafes, restaurants and hotels will, understandably, be keen to cash in on Hobbit mania for years.
All of which is a little overwhelming if Bilbo Baggins is not your bag. But fear not: it is possible to enjoy what Wellington does best – great coffee, great food and craft beer – without getting swept up in the mania. Here are some of the newest hangouts in town – with not a Hobbit-themed cocktail in sight.
Not Bag End
Just far enough from downtown and right on the city's premier promenade, Oriental Parade, Ohtel's 10 rooms offer a formidable mix of comfort and kitsch. Classy and sought-after, this is the only boutique hotel in town.
• 66 Oriental Parade, +64 4803 0600, ohtel.com, studios from £128 a night
Not orc draught
Coffee is a pumping artery in Wellington's culinary culture and the newest roastery in town is Flight Coffee Hangar. The factory outlet for fast-rising Flight Coffee, it's backed by Nick Clark, one of New Zealand's sharpest young baristas, so you can count on the finest crema here. Also serves epic pies and salads.
• 171-177 Willis Street (entrance on Dixon Street), +64 4212 6823, no website. Open Mon-Fri 7am-5pm, Sat-Sun 9am-5pm
Not dwarvish metalwork
The City Gallery is right on Civic Square, mid-town, and boasts the best local and international art exhibitions. Try Ben Cauchi's photo exhibition The Sophist's Mirror, until February 2013.
• Civic Square, 101 Wakefield Street, + 64 4801 3021, citygallery.org.nz. Open Mon-Sun 10am-5pm, entry is free
Not the banks of the Brandywine
One of the greatest natural harbours in the southern hemisphere gives Wellington a more accessible waterfront than any other city in New Zealand. Much of it is only two minutes' walk from downtown, but jump on the number 1 bus to Island Bay for fish and chips on the beach while the sun sets over the Kaikoura mountains on the South Island. The best chippie in Island Bay is Fu Xian Seafood, with fish as fresh as the third-generation Italian fishermen who pull it out of Cook Strait, 200m away.
• Fu Xian Seafood, 347 The Parade, Island Bay, + 64 4939 4347
Not the Green Dragon Inn
New Zealand's capital city is swimming in quality craft beer, and the hop geeks' unofficial HQ is Little Beer Quarter. Hidden, dark and heady, it offers more than 100 local and international bottled beers plus 14 rotating beers on tap. For late-night live music, try the refurbished Havana Bar on Wigan Street, a popular nook with rum aficionados.
• Little Beer Quarter, 6 Edward Street, Te Aro, +64 4803 3304, littlebeerquarter.co.nz. Open 4pm-late Monday, noon-late Tues-Sat. Havana Bar, 32a-34 Wigan Street, Te Aro, +64 4384 7039, havanabar.co.nz. Open Mon-Fri 11am-late, Sat 3pm-late
Nicholas Churchouse is a writer for the online Wellington guide wordonthestreet.co.nz