Authentic Algarve: there's more to the costa than golf and resorts

There are still places in southern Portugal where there are more flamingos than tourists, and rural traditions are part of the fabric of life

Blue sea sparkled on the other side of the wetlands. The empty dirt path stretched towards it, through wild mallow flowers and nodding daisies. To the right, there was a small, empty beach, with a few rowing boats pulled up on the sand. Far to the left, a flock of flamingos were feeding at a bend in the lagoon. There was no one else around; no sounds except the wind and waves, and the faint gabble of the birds among the flowers.

It was hard to believe this was the Algarve – renowned for beach resorts and golf courses – but we came across nature reserves, like this one at Ria de Alvor, wherever we went.